Church of Saint George – Sofia’s Oldest Historic Landmark

Hidden amidst the heart of modern Sofia lies a relic of antiquity – the Church of Saint George, a Late Antique red brick rotunda that defies time itself. This architectural marvel, born in the shadows of the 4th century, stands as Sofia’s oldest preserved structure and a silent witness to the city’s transformation from Roman Serdica to the bustling capital of Bulgaria.

A Portal to Antiquity: Origins and Evolution

Roman Roots Beneath the Streets of Sofia

Beneath the bustling streets of Sofia, several meters below ground level, rests this ancient masterpiece. Its cylindrical form and red brick composition whisper tales of Roman ingenuity, originally constructed as imperial baths under the watchful eyes of emperors Galerius and Constantine the Great.

As the Roman Empire morphed into the Byzantine behemoth, the rotunda embraced a new identity, evolving into a Christian church nestled within the formidable walls of Serdica, the capital of Dacia Mediterranea.

A Structure Forged in Geometry

The church’s architectural blueprint reflects the era’s fascination with symmetry and precision. At its core lies a circular rotunda crowned by a dome, delicately balanced atop a square foundation. Semicircular niches emerge from each corner, adding layers of depth and complexity to its otherwise minimalist façade.

From the 4th century onward, this hallowed space bore witness to countless baptisms, sermons, and imperial decrees. The dome, reaching a height of 13.7 meters, encloses the faithful in an intimate yet awe-inspiring embrace.

Layers of Time: The Frescoes Within

Step inside, and you are immediately enveloped by the timeless gaze of 22 prophets. Their imposing figures, standing over 2 meters tall, encircle the dome – eyes fixed, unblinking, as if to peer into the soul of every visitor.

The Silent Struggle of Paint and Faith

The frescoes, intricate and bold, are not the product of a single hand or even a single century. Instead, they emerge as palimpsests of devotion, layered atop one another as Bulgaria endured and thrived.

4th Century – Roman-Byzantine floral motifs delicately unfurl across the lower sections.
10th Century – Angels of Bulgarian medieval artistry take form, perhaps conceived during the reign of Simeon I the Great.
11th-12th Centuries – A frieze of prophets watches over frescoes depicting the Ascension and Assumption.
14th Century – Donor portraits and bishop effigies appear, bridging the realm of the divine and mortal.
Ottoman Era – Islamic calligraphy and ornamental designs mask the Christian imagery, as the church transforms into a mosque during the 16th century.

Legends and Relics: The Church’s Sacred Guardianship

The Relics of John of Rila

The Church of Saint George once cradled the holy relics of John of Rila, the revered patron saint of Bulgaria. These relics, shrouded in both myth and reverence, are said to have healed the Byzantine Emperor Manuel Comnenus.

Yet, they were not untouched by turmoil. In 1183, Hungarian forces, led by Béla III, plundered Sofia and seized the relics, spiriting them away to Esztergom. However, fate intervened – legend recounts that the bishop of Esztergom lost his voice after defiling the relics, prompting their return to Bulgaria.

A Refuge for Saints and Kings

For a brief period, the church housed the remains of Serbian King Stefan Milutin, canonized and celebrated across the Balkans. His relics later found their eternal rest at the Sveta Nedelya Church, further cementing the rotunda’s spiritual significance.

Ottoman Transformation: A Church Becomes a Mosque

By the 16th century, the Ottoman Turks had repurposed the rotunda into a mosque, a fate shared by many Christian structures across the Balkans. The vibrant frescoes, deemed incompatible with Islamic doctrine, were concealed beneath layers of plaster.

However, by the mid-19th century, the rotunda, along with Saint Sofia Church, fell into abandonment. The echoes of Christian hymns and Islamic prayers faded into silence, until the Bulgarian Orthodox Church reclaimed the structure, restoring its original purpose.

A Living Monument to Culture and Faith

Despite its modest size, the Church of Saint George looms large in cultural and religious significance. It draws comparisons to the Rotunda of Galerius in Thessaloniki, yet carries an identity uniquely Bulgarian.

Art and Spirituality Collide

Among the most mesmerizing relics is the 10th-century angel, painted beneath the dome. Its serene, almost sorrowful visage is a hallmark of the Bulgarian artistic golden age, standing as a testament to the exceptional talent of the medieval period.

The Rotunda Today: A Beacon for Pilgrims and Scholars

In modern times, the Church of Saint George transcends its role as a place of worship. It transforms into a stage for:

Orthodox and classical concerts
Solemn military ceremonies
Pilgrimages and cultural tours

The very essence of the church, built with care and adorned with devotion, continues to inspire. Visitors find themselves transported, if only briefly, to an era when emperors roamed the streets of Serdica, and the divine felt just a breath away.